At a Glance
- IV through VII+/6b
- 2087 m
I loved climbing these routes:
- Stoletje (VI-/IV, 180 m)
- Juševa smer (V/IV, 180 m)
- Zajeda skozi okno (V+/IV, 180 m)
- Severovzhodni greben (Northeast Ridge) of Nad Šitom Glava (IV-V/II-III, 200 m)
- Smer po zajedi (V+/IV-V, 300 m)
- Severni raz (North Ridge) of Mala Mojstrovka (IV/III-IV, 300 m)
Severni Raz in Mala Mojstrovka’s north face is the easiest of them all and suitable for total beginners (trust me, we tried it out); the others require at least some climbing skills to be enjoyable.
- The routes in the southeast face of Nad Šitom Glava are a bit shorter (180 m versus 300 m), steeper, and more demanding.
- The southeast face of Nad Šitom Glava is in shadow after 2 PM, making it possible to climb there in summer; you’d be better off going there in spring/autumn and enjoying the sunshine.
- When I was younger, I climbed at least some of the above routes as the lead climber. Today, I prefer climbing them with a mountain guide – I can highly recommend Tina di Batista or Gregor Kofler.