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Veliki Vrh, Southwest Face

Climbing in Slovenia » Kamnik-Savinja Alps » Veliki Vrh, Southwest Face

Veliki Vrh is a barely noticeable peak in a side ridge west of the prominent peaks of the Kamnik Alps. What sets it apart is a patch of monolithic rock in its southwest face with over a dozen well-protected bolted multi-pitch routes – the ideal destination for a leisurely day on the rocks or the first steps into the exciting world of multi-pitch climbing.

At a glance

Difficulty
VI-/IV-V and above
Altitude
1300 m
Coordinates
Start: 46.370639,14.489000
Peak: 46.372487,14.491714

Starting point Hiking map

Don’t Wing It

Even though the routes are well-protected, don’t even think about climbing them on your own unless you had proper training, including multi-pitch rope maneuvers. Hire a mountain guide, offload all the worries, and focus on climbing.

Need a recommendation? Our family loved the day we spent there with Tina di Batista, and I thoroughly enjoyed the climbs with Miha Habjan.

  • Sanje neke gospodinje (Housewife’s Dreams) is an ideal starting point – easy climbing after you master the crux in the first pitch. Don’t worry if you’re a beginner; in the worst case, the lead climber will pull you through the tricky bit.

  • Črni metulj (Black Butterfly) is an interesting combination of slightly more intricate details.

  • Valček (Waltz) tries to find some remaining space on the lower parts of the face, gives up before the last pitch, and turns right into a pretty technical corner.

  • Mama Korzika (Mother Corsica) starts with an attractive overhanging corner and ends with a nasty technical slab.

More details in the recommended guidebook or on plezanje.net.

Notes

  • You could climb in Veliki Vrh from mid-spring to autumn. The rockface is in shadow until ~ 11 AM – start late in spring/autumn and early in the morning in summer.
  • You’ll love the grades – I don’t think I’ve ever climbed an easier VI- or VII-.