At a glance
- VI-/IV-V and above
- 1300 m
Don’t Wing It
Even though the routes are well-protected, don’t even think about climbing them on your own unless you had proper training, including multi-pitch rope maneuvers. Hire a mountain guide, offload all the worries, and focus on climbing.
Sanje neke gospodinje (Housewife’s Dreams) is an ideal starting point – easy climbing after you master the crux in the first pitch. Don’t worry if you’re a beginner; in the worst case, the lead climber will pull you through the tricky bit.
Črni metulj (Black Butterfly) is an interesting combination of slightly more intricate details.
Valček (Waltz) tries to find some remaining space on the lower parts of the face, gives up before the last pitch, and turns right into a pretty technical corner.
Mama Korzika (Mother Corsica) starts with an attractive overhanging corner and ends with a nasty technical slab.
More details in the recommended guidebook or on plezanje.net.
- You could climb in Veliki Vrh from mid-spring to autumn. The rockface is in shadow until ~ 11 AM – start late in spring/autumn and early in the morning in summer.
- You’ll love the grades – I don’t think I’ve ever climbed an easier VI- or VII-.